VVT
basics:
When Toyota went to the
20 valve
engine from the 16 it introduced the
first form of Variable valve timing (VVT) for any A series engine. It
is the most simple form of variable valve timing in that it is not only
on just the intake cam but it works only on two preset positions. Using
oil pressure the cam belt pulley is either in a neutral position
relative to the intake camshaft or in a retarded position. This is
achieved by the use of an external oil control solenoid, dedicated oil
gallery, an additional cam oiling slot & hole in the camshaft
and
of course the VVT pulley itself.
The VVT solenoid is
located on the
exhaust side of the head at the
front. It has a constant positive on one terminal and the other is
grounded by the ECU to activate the oil flow. The VVT solenoids are
identical between the black and silvertops although in the blacktop it
uses a variety of inputs such as engine load, temp ,etc.. to determine
the VVT change over point. The actual VVT pulleys on the other hand are
not interchangeable as they have a different offset starting position.
 |
This
is a 20V engine with the cam-belt cover removed. Visible is the left
hand side pulley which is the VVT gear. The VVT solenoid is also
visible as the cylindrical part facing outwards on the right hand side
(exhaust side) of the engine. The two pin connector is unplugged and on
the end of the solenoid facing upwards.
(Click on
image to zoom in) |
VVT
Gear
internals:
These pictures are of a
VVT gear that
have been disassembled.
The work performed and photos are from Merv McCallum
, Victoria, Australia. A big thanks to Merv for the permission to keep using these interesting photos.
VVT
Checks and
Troubleshooting:
To test if VVT is
functioning
correctly or not only two basic checks
can be made without a dyno. Under normal conditions the VVT solenoid is
not normally activated till approximetely 2000RPM. If activated at idle
the revs will drop and the engine will run rougher. One side of the VVT
solenoid has a constant positive power source, so by shorting out the
second wire it will ground the cable and activate the solenoid. If the
engine smoothness or idle revs don't change then there is a fault in
the system. The solenoid can be removed and have 12 volts
directly connected to the terminals to see if it's mechanically
functioning. This however will very likely be a futile effort as these
solenoids have proven to be completely reliable and there hasn't yet
been a known reported case of one failing. The other test is a very
simple one; the VVT solenoid is simply unplugged and the car is driven.
Below is a video of a person checking a VVT solenoid by applying power
directly:
Known
Failures:
The VVT pulleys on the
intake cam them
self have known to fail. This is
characterized by a loud clicking sound akin to a loose rocker arm. This
has been nicknamed by some 20V owners as the "click of death".
Unfortunatley this pulley is a non serviceable part and is reported to
be very difficult to disassemble and reassemble. While these are
still available brand new they are Unfortunately quite expensive.
The other known failure
has been
reported by "Mr Acoustic" and is the
power transistor in the ECU itself that does the power switching for
the solenoid power return. This has been extensively covered on his
website listed below:
Problems
of AE111 ECU
Removing
VVT:
Having VVT in place means
that the
intake cam is not readily adjustable
via a system like those on adjustable cam gears. The VVT pulley can be
removed by using something along the lines of Toda's "VVT canceling
gear" which is an adjustable cam gear that suits the shape of the 20v
cam but is just a normal adjustable cam gear. The second option is a
much simpler and cheaper one; some aftermarket cam gears are shaped
such that they suit a normal 16V intake gear and hence any readily
available/home made adjustable gear can be used.
 |
These
two gears are made by Toda Japan for the 20V engine. It can be seen in
the middle of the bottom gear how the center has been made so its
raised to suit the shape of the 20V camshaft.
(Click on
image to zoom in)
|
Aftermarket
ECU control:
How the VVT is controlled is determined by the options of the ECU in
its auxiliary controls. If the aftermarket ECU in question has the
option of turning an output on/off at a set revs and then the reverse
later then a single relay can be used. The relay would ground the
second side of the VVT solenoid and would be triggered directly.
For an ECU that can only switch the output once at a certain set revs
then two outputs are needed. Each of the outputs would turn on a relay
each, where the first relay would activate the VVT solenoid and the
second cut the power to the first.
Aftermarket
cams and VVT:
There is much speculation on what does and does not work with
aftermarket cams and VVT control. Some report beyond a certain
duration the pulleys retard the timing too much, citing things such as valves touching pistons from the extra ignition advance.
Tuning:
To determine the right points to turn the VVT solenoid on and off two
dyno runs are needed; one with the solenoid locked on and vice-versa.
The with both power charts overlapped on top of each other the highest
peaks are chosen of each of the two curves. As a guide the VVT will be
turned on early in the rev range off at approximately 6000RPM. These
figures are almost always different between engines due to their
different combination of parts.